email message from J&B on 12th August….

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serbia. endless blue skies. riding towards the almost full moon, sun sets, sky turns purple. roads deteriorate, building’s crumble. aroma of burning plastic. big juicy nectarines and hundreds of water melons piled on carts by the side of the road. dirty children rummage in trash-heap. horse and cart. turning on my bike to see joel’s silhouette in front of the setting sun. smelling the goats before we see them! such beaming smiles from wrinkled old ladies with gold teeth as we stop for water in golden sunlight. don’t mention the war. cycle short suntans. wild camping by canal, joel’s new fishing rod. hot hot hot. hair in turban protects me from the sonnska. ah, big blue swimming pool, balkan beats. butterfly. motion in sign; “we need to pay!”. man shakes head; this is serbia! thank you, “hvalla!”

camera stolen on train. buying a new one, i tell the man of our misfortune and he says “this is balkans”. he says he has a similar story… wife left him 3 days ago, cheated, new man, baby… but is he happy? beaming! this is serbia; everyone is.gotta go pack panniers now. hoping to get to Belgrade (from novi sad) today! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

sending you all our love x x x
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